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Lord engine mount removal

Does anyone know the best way and easiest way to remove lord engine mount from the right rear of E225-8? I need to replace mine as the oil leakage on it has made it soft and developed cracks. Some years,ago, I replaced all and on the right rear had to remove the leg or casting that holds it. I am not sure if by just removing the bolt, the rubber mount comes off since the inside bushing will prevent it.
There are few articles on how to install them but not how to remove the rear ones. Also on mine the shims are on the outside of the fork preventing the nut to bottom out on the shank. It seems that will prevent the fork from being drawn together, causing it to break.
Appreciate your suggestion.
Thank you
Nik

Model: Bonanza F35
Posted 10/16/2023 - 4 months ago
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Abbas, you will need to remove the upper cowling and support the weight of the engine with a hoist to remove or install engine mounts. It is usually necessary to disconnect mufflers and drain lines to gain enough movement to get at the mounts. Lew Gage has a trick he uses to rotate mounts periodically. Maybe he will give us some tips.

Posted 10/16/2023 - 4 months ago
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Hello Steve,
Thank ypu .I do have the hoist and I have read Lew Gage article about installing and rotating. What I can't find is the removal instructions of rear. The front ones are easy. As is the mount will not come out because of the inner bushing which is through the leg. This is why I need to know if anyone else has done it.Last time I had to remove the leg or casting from the,engine block. I don't want to do that, as there may be one or two through bolt.
Thank you

Nik

Posted 10/16/2023 - 4 months ago
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Abbas, the engine has to lift up a couple of inches and be moved around a bit to replace the engine mounts. It is not an easy job. While you are at it, check for loose and missing rivets that attach the rear engine mount brackets to the keel structure. I usually find at least one bad rivet whenever I change mounts. Consider replacing all the bolts and make sure that they are torquing on the bushings and not bottoming out on the threads. This is an A&P task.

Posted 10/16/2023 - 4 months ago
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I do not have time to answer today but should be able to put some information here tomorrow evening.

Regards, Lew Gage

Posted 10/16/2023 - 4 months ago
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Thanks Lew! Abbas, it is a great idea to have a helper while you are doing a job like this. He/she can help you reposition the engine as the mounts are changed. It is possible to badly crush your fingers if the engine shifts while a finger is in the wrong place. Another good reason for assistance and work gloves.

Posted 10/17/2023 - 4 months ago
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Thank you Steve. I will wait for Mr Lew Gages comment on removal.
I only need to remove the right rear and rotate the other three which are still good. In thez mean time I have other issues that I need to solve with this plane.

Regards

Nik

Posted 10/18/2023 - 4 months ago
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The only way I have been able to remove the rear mounts is to remove the upper cowl halves, loosen the front mount through bolts about 4 or 5 turns, remove the rear through bolts and lift the rear of the engine enough so the mounts come out of the engine mount forks. There is some useful information in the Nov. 2004, Nov. 2010, Dec. 2010, Dec. 2013 ABS Magazine. My articles are usually listed as "CURRENTS." There are spacer washers that must be used to avoid bending the engine mount forks. Read the articles. Make sure the propeller spinner clears the cowl nose bowl as the engine is raised.

There are a number of things such as the exhaust connection, fuel line connection and other instrument connections that must be considered when raising the rear of the engine the 2 or 3 inches needed to remove the engine mounts.

Regards, Lew Gage

Posted 10/18/2023 - 4 months ago
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Thank you very much, Lew. I really appreciate your comments and sharing your experience. I have read both of your articles on Nov and December of 2010. Excellent articles. Specially the tool you made.In my aircraft the,rear mount are shimmed outside the,fork and not inside. From what I see the shims prevent the nut from bottoming out. However that may not allow the bolt to be,torqued 300 to 25 inch pounds shop manual calls for. If it can be torqued without pulling the fork ears together, it may lessen the,task of putting those shims inside. One issue wit rear right mount is somehow oil gets on it after each flight and that deteriorates the rubber mount. Perhaps I can wrap it some foil.


Last time I removed the,right rear mount, I removed the leg and the bolt and was able to remove the whole assembly out of the fork. This time I am going to follow your suggestion. Will take photos when I start this and will share it on ABS site.

Best regards

Nik

Posted 10/18/2023 - 4 months ago
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Thank you very much, Lew. I really appreciate your comments and sharing your experience. I have read both of your articles on Nov and December of 2010. Excellent articles. Specially the tool you made.In my aircraft the,rear mount are shimmed outside the,fork and not inside. From what I see the shims prevent the nut from bottoming out. However that may not allow the bolt to be,torqued 300 to 325 inch pounds shop manual calls for. If it can be torqued without pulling the fork ears together, it may lessen the,task of putting those shims inside. One issue wit rear right mount is somehow oil gets on it after each flight and that deteriorates the rubber mount. Perhaps I can wrap it with some foil.


Last time I removed the,right rear mount, I removed the leg and the bolt and was able to remove the whole assembly out of the fork. This time I am going to follow your suggestion. Will take photos when I start this and will share it on ABS site.

Best regards

Nik

Posted 10/18/2023 - 4 months ago
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Yes, the mount can be, I suppose, removed by removing the mount leg from the engine. It might be less work doing that way than removing all the connections and hoisting the engine. I have not done it that way but then it seems I always do most things the hard way. Size up the required work and time to do it both ways and use the easiest way. But I will say that I have not seen an E engine rear mount that did not require spacer washers to keep the forks from being bent in when the through bolt is torqued up. The forks should be straight up and parallel to each other. If the forks are bent so they are not parallel inspect them for cracks. If the through bolt is too long use washers on the nut end so the nut does not bottom out on the threads.

Regards, Lew Gage

Posted 10/19/2023 - 4 months ago
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Lord engine mount removal